Wrinkles at 50: cosmetics to eliminate them

    At this age, the most frequent is to present both dynamic and static wrinkles. If you’re one of those who prefers to reduce them, take note. The first, also called expression lines, are linked to mimicry and facial gestures. “They occur when the skin ends up folding due to the continuous repetition of movements involving contractions of the facial muscles. They are located mainly in the upper third of the face (forehead, between the eyebrows, crow’s feet) and are not not always related to age.explains Natalia Jiménez, dermatologist in the facial aesthetics unit of the Pedro Jaen La Moraleja Group. On the other hand, static wrinkles are clearly associated with the passage of time. “They are manifested by a loss of skin volume due to the retraction of facial fat and the progressive loss of collagen and elastin, two substances involved in the firmness of the skin. These wrinkles are located in the upper third of the face (the same as those of expression, although generally deeper) and, in addition, they can occupy other areas such as the neck, the lower third of the face and the perioral area “explains Dr. Jiménez.

    Why do they appear?

    While it is true that wrinkles can appear when you least expect them, usually “The appearance of wrinkles is related to age, as well as genetic and hormonal factors and environmental conditions related to excessive sun exposure, smoking, cosmetic care and lifestyle”, emphasizes Dr. Jiménez. For her part, Virtudes Ruíz, surgeon and aesthetic doctor from Aesthetic Virtue affects the hormonal cause: “At this age, we are in perimenopause (the years before or after menopause) which leads to changes in the skin, such as a decrease in collagen and elastin fibers and dryness.”

    What can we do to prevent them?

    You can’t avoid making gestures or slow down the passage of time, but you can and should use specific anti-wrinkle cosmetics: “must contain antioxidants (especially vitamin C), acids (hyaluronic, alpha and beta hydroxy acids) and retinol (anti-aging ingredient par excellence). The good thing is to apply the antioxidants in the morning (after cleansing and moisturizing and before photoprotection) and the other actives in the evening”advises group dermatologist Pedro Jaén La Moraleja.

    • Vitamin C: “It is a powerful antioxidant, it protects against pollution and other environmental aggressions (sun, smoke, tobacco, stress, etc.), it is an excellent anti-free radical and it is essential in the toilet bag of mature skin its ability to provide luminosity to the complexion. It also intervenes on the firmness of the skin, since it promotes the synthesis of collagen »assures Inmaculada Jiménez, director of training at Sephora.
    • Hyaluronic acid: “It is the moisturizing active ingredient par excellence, responsible for “filling” wrinkles and expression lines, as well as preserving the skin’s hydration. Using it daily provides the juiciness and elasticity lost with age”explains Inmaculada Jiménez.
    • peptides: “They act as a base for collagen, elastin or keratin (structural substances of the skin). Without them, the skin loses firmness and luminosity, and wrinkles appear. Its use results in younger, firmer and healthier looking skin.according to expert Sephora.
    • Ceramides: “These are lipids that make up about 50% of the epidermis and are responsible for creating the natural barrier that prevents skin dryness and malnutrition. Their production slows down with age and it is important to integrate them into the cosmetic routine”advises Sephora’s training director.
    • Retinol: This derivative of vitamin A is essential at night, why? “Helps renew the skin and accelerates cell regeneration. In this way, it obtains a reaffirmed, plumped and also uniform skin, thanks to its properties of blurring discolorations and imperfections”, says the expert. It is advisable to incorporate it gradually: once or twice a week).

      Hydracomplex AXT treatment (€45), from Vertu Esthétique. Regenerating cream with vitamin E, ceramides, collagen and hyaluronic acid, among others. It stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin, regenerates, hydrates and improves the texture of the skin.

      Cellular Regeneration Anti-Aging Cream (€125.50), LPG. With peptides, ceramides and hyaluronic acid, which improve the elasticity and tone of the skin, prevent the breakdown of elastin and protect against oxidative stress and dehydration.

      A-Gloei-Retinol and Ceramides Facial Oil (€69.99), by Drunk Elephant. A gentle dose of 0.5% vegan retinol to brighten, refine and smooth uneven and blemish-prone skin. Only at Sephora.

      Hydrating Serum Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (€99), from The Ordinary. A hydrating formula based on ultra-pure vegan hyaluronic acid of three molecular weights. Only at Sephora.

      Clinique Intelligent Repair Serum (€79.99), from Clinique. Its formula with retinoids smoothes and softens the skin, while hyaluronic acid plumps up fine lines. On sale at Sephora.

      What treatments are effective?

      “It has been shown that we can help slow down the visible symptoms of aging by performing aesthetic medicine treatments, from the first signs of aging and the first wrinkles marked in relaxation, as well as deep hydration or redensification treatments for the skin of the face »comments María Vicente, surgeon and aesthetic doctor.

      • Anti-aging renovator. This treatment reduces wrinkles and expression lines, and protects the skin from free radicals. The skin is worked with the Ergolift head which incorporates a micromotor with patented MPF (Motorized Pulsating Flaps) technology. This performs a double stimulation; horizontal, with controlled flap pulsations; and vertical, by means of sequential suction. Which is an intense fitness session for the fibroblasts which, as a result, start producing new hyaluronic acid (+80%, as evidenced by facial biopsies), collagen (+23%) and l elastin (+46%). The treatment is completed by the application of a peeling Glycolic acid and mandelic acid in the appropriate proportion, depending on the type of skin; second-skin effect collagen mask; serum with 7% hyaluronic acid; eye contour to decongest puffiness, dark circles and wrinkles; and firming cream to “fill” wrinkles and redensify the skin. Sessions: between 4 and 6 sessions are recommended on average. Price: from €65/session. Where: LPG centers.
      • Botulinum toxin. It is applied by injections strategically distributed in the areas of the face that you wish to treat. “Relaxes the gesture, opens the eyes, lifts the tail of the eyebrow, reduces the expression lines of the upper third of the face, and achieves rejuvenation and a good face without adding volume or modifying the gestures”, explains Dr. Jiménez. Sessions: it is recommended to repeat the treatment every 5-6 months. Price: from €550.
      • Plasma rich in growth factors. This regenerative medicine treatment involves injecting a biological product from the patient’s blood into the face. It is performed by taking a sample of blood and centrifuging it to separate the platelets (fraction rich in growth factors). “This treatment stimulates the production of collagen and elastin, two proteins linked to the firmness of the skin. The result is juicier, luminous and smoother skin, with a more even complexion and a healthier and more vital appearance”, explains Dr. Jiménez. Sessions: it is recommended to do this treatment between 2 and 4 times a year. Price: from €540.
      • tension wires. It consists of inserting under the skin and through a cannula, threads made with biocompatible materials. Before the treatment, the doctor traces the path that the thread will follow under the skin, introduces it through an entry point and, once placed in the right place, exerts a pulling movement to tighten the tissues. Then press the area so that the spicules distributed along the wire are anchored to the subcutaneous tissue. “This treatment smoothes wrinkles and notably reduces the flaccidity of the lower third of the face thanks to the traction effect which occurs when the thread is applied and to the production of new collagen induced by the thread”, according to the dermatologist. Sessions: the threads gradually resorb and their effects last between 18 months and three years, at which time the treatment can be repeated. Price: between €400 and €1,100, depending on the number of threads.
      • Collagen fillers and inducers. The infiltration of resorbable fillers consists of injecting hyaluronic acid with sufficient density to improve the hydration of the skin, fill the furrows and marked wrinkles or give volume to the right areas. On the other hand, collagen inducers are resorbable substances that are injected to stimulate the production of own collagen and elastin to reduce flaccidity and thinning of the skin responsible for static wrinkles. “These treatments are applied in consultation and are injected with needles or cannulas of different calibers”, says Natalia Jiménez. Sessions: its effects last between six months and two years, depending on the substance and its formulation. After this period, and once the body has reabsorbed the material, the procedure can be repeated. Price: from €400/session.
      • Radiofrequency with micro-needles (Morpheus). It is a more powerful and improved version of the classic radio frequency. The system is equipped with a head with micro-needles that transport radiofrequency thermal energy to the innermost layers of the skin, achieving a complete rejuvenating effect from within. “The energy of this equipment stimulates the production of collagen and elastin, and achieves a rejuvenating effect on wrinkles (crow’s feet, barcodes, periorbital wrinkles, marionette wrinkles, nasolabial folds, forehead and lion wrinkles , neck…), skin quality, sagging, acne marks, scars”, details the dermatologist of Grupo Pedro Jaén La Moraleja. Sessions: between one and three sessions are recommended, one every three months. Price: €950/session.
      • Full face Natural Perfect Look protocol. It is very complete because three thirds of the face are treated: the upper third with botulinum toxin; the middle third, with specific hyaluronic acid for each area and here not only the cheeks or cheekbones can be included, but also dark circles; and the bottom one, with collagen stimulators, either in the form of injectables such as polycaprolactone or calcium hydroxyapatite, or the more common hybrids, which are a mixture of hyaluronic acid and calcium hydroxyapatite at different concentrations, depending on the condition of the skin. “These are used in the lower third to contain the sagging of the oval of the face and improve the density and firmness of the skin. And, when there is a lot of flaccidity, they are combined with polylactic acid sutures with cones. We are also very aware of the improvement in the profile of the lips, which at this age shows a lack of structure, wrinkles around the lips and a loss of profile of the lips”, explains Dr. Vicente. This care is performed in a single act, with or without topical anesthesia, and does not require social leave. “Over the next two months, it will continue to improve the appearance without changing”adds Dr. Vicente. Sessions: a single annual session. Price: from €1,500. Where: Aesthetic Virtue.

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